I’ve always wanted to be able to surf – not in the Kelly Slater athletic way or Laird Hamilton giant, scary, deadly waves way (although those are both great), but in the mellow get in the ocean, enjoy the swell, ride a wave or two on a longboard kind of way.
But I come to this late. I’m getting older. Even though I’m a decent swimmer, apparently I have a laughably weak paddle and tire easily. I’m not particularly frightened of the water, but being out in the waves does worry me – as does getting in the way of surfers who are better than me.
And the pop-up. How frustrating! I’ve been working with Elliot from Surf2Live and he’s a superstar. Very patient and encouraging and I know I’ll get there eventually. In fact, I feel frustrated as much for him as I do for myself.
Meanwhile, I’ll be back out there – getting tired, sore, sun burned, and happy. I’ll get it, eventually, and then I’ll learn to get better.